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Ayurveda
Ayurvedic Skin Care Rasayanas
One
of the main reasons for Ayurvedic skin care products and protocols taking
the spa and beauty worlds by storm is the availability of numerous potent
skin rasayanas in the Ayurvedic herbal treasury. Skin rasayanas (rasa—essence,
ayana—enter) are so called because of their ability to deliver
penetrating holistic benefits to the skin without side effects or the
damage caused by a fragmented approach to skin health. Whatever your skin
type or needs for balance, there are Ayurvedic skin rasayanas that can
help. Further, when used in combination, as is the Ayurvedic tradition,
you derive the added benefit of synergy, with the combined formulation
being exponentially more beneficial than any single herb in the
formulation. These rasayanas can be used either as nutritional
supplements, to provide support to the skin from within, or in topical
formulations for the skin where they deliver their benefits
trans-dermally.
The therapeutic value of the rasayanas is maximized when they are used in
natural topical formulations in combination with emollients such as milk,
cream, yogurt or honey, exfoliating substances such as natural clay,
salts, grain or lentil flours, vegetable base oils, and floral waters or
pure essential oils to act as the yogavahi—the carrier of the healing
values of the herbs to the cells and tissues. Both the herbs themselves,
as well as the other ingredients in the formulations, can be chosen
specifically for a skin type, or balanced to suit all skin types.
Formulations that are tridoshic—suitable for all skin types—generally have
many more herbs and ingredients to avoid aggravating an individual dosha.
The herbs should not be exposed to high temperatures, and should be of
high quality and not old. Formulations that add herbs to chemical bases or
that contain artificial preservatives or fragrances are not as useful in
maintaining skin health and appearance because the herbs in such
formulations are “dead.”
Vata skin, space or air predominant, is delicate and tends to be naturally
dry. Skin rasayanas that benefit Vata skin are mainly nourishing, with
subsidiary properties such as enhancing natural glow or purifying the
skin. Such herbs also balance Vata dosha in the physiology, calming and
settling the mind and supporting stress management and mind/body
coordination so that the ravages of worry and excessive mental pressure do
not show up on the skin as fine lines, sagging and bags under the eyes.
Nourishment and deep, ongoing rehydration are essential if Vata skin is to
look healthy, plump and youthful.
Brahmi (Bacopa), Shatavari (Indian Asparagus), Amla (Indian Gooseberry),
Gotu kola (Indian Pennywort) and Ashwagandha (Winter Cherry) are potent
Vata-pacifying skin rasayanas that help support skin elasticity, moisture
balance, texture and radiance. They are ultra-nourishing, helping to
regenerate skin cells and keep skin looking youthful. Triphala, made from
equal parts of Indian Gooseberry, Beleric Myrobalan and Chebulic
Myrobalan, is also excellent for Vata skin because it combines nourishment
with a gentle detoxifying effect that enhances skin clarity. Topical
formulations for Vata skin combine these herbs with nourishing oils and
Vata-balancing aromas.
Pitta skin, fire predominant, is sensitive and is generally neither dry
nor oily. Skin rasayanas that support the health of Pitta skin are mainly
cooling and soothing, with some element of nourishing and purifying as
well. These rasayanas also balance Pitta in the physiology, balancing the
emotions and strengthening the heart/mind coordination so that the inner
serenity and emotional balance are reflected on the skin as a healthy glow
and brightness, and “angry” eruptions and redness are avoided. Pitta skin
also requires protection, because it tends to be more photosensitive than
other types of skin.
Amla, Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), Kumari (aloe vera), White Sandalwood, Red
Sandalwood and Lajawanti (Mimosa) are considered the pre-eminent
Pitta-pacifying skin rasayanas. They draw out excess heat, support the
skin’s natural ability to withstand the ravages of the environment, and
keep skin clear and healthy. They nourish sensitive skin tissue without
irritating it. Triphala, Manjistha (Indian Madder) and Neem are also
helpful for Pitta skin because they purify and clarify the skin without
depleting it of moisture or youthfulness. Topical formulations for Pitta
skin combine these herbs with soothing oils and Pitta-balancing aromas.
Kapha skin, water or earth predominant, is oily, and tends to be congested
and susceptible to attracting dust and grime. Skin rasayanas for Kapha
skin are therefore first purifiers that detoxify and clarify, with
subsidiary properties of being nourishing and rejuvenating. These herbs
also balance Kapha dosha in the physiology, invigorating the mind and body
so that the skin appears “alive” and vital, and retarding the lethargy
that dulls Kapha skin.
Neem, Manjistha (Indian Madder), Triphala, Tulsi (Holy Basil) and Turmeric
are potent Kapha-balancing skin rasayanas. They help detoxify the skin
while nourishing it at the same time. They balance oil content in the skin
and enhance clarity and brightness. Because of their effective
detoxification properties, these rasayanas keep Kapha skin squeaky clean,
so that it stays healthy and naturally radiant. Topical formulations for
Kapha skin combine these herbs with light oils and Kapha-balancing aromas.
Tridoshic formulations that are formulated for all skin types draw on skin
rasayanas from each group to offer the combined benefits of nourishment,
detoxification, protection and balanced temperature.
– Shreelata Suresh
January 2, 2005
Disclaimer: The above article
is educational in nature, and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or
prevent any disease. If you have a medical condition, please consult your
physician.
Shreelata Suresh is a yoga
instructor from the Bay Area, and she writes on yoga and Ayurveda for
different publications. To subscribe to free newsletters on Ayurveda, or
for more information, please visit
http://www.ayurbalance.com.
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