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Photo Essay
Trek to Rudranath
by Indrajit Bandyopadhyay


This shot is of a local boy enjoying himself, as we strolled lazily in the evening. 


View of Mandala village - Confluence of the Balkhilya Ganga and Atri Ganga
Images (c) Indrajit Bandyopadhyay

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The trek to Rudranath was undertaken
from August 21st to August 30, 2009

Rudranath is the toughest of the famous Panch Kedar pilgrimage treks. Even seasoned trekkers say, and locals agree, 'Rudranath ki Chadai, German ki Ladai'. Actually there are six Kedars, including Pashupatinath temple of Nepal. The Panch Kedars of India comprises of five Kedar temples - Kalpeshwar, Rudranath, Tungnath, Madhyamaheshwar, and Kedarnath.

The myth goes that after the Mahabharatha war, the Pandavas went to the Himalayas to seek the blessings from Lord Shiva. But, Shiva would not appear before them initially. He disguised as a buffalo and hid himself among other buffalos. Bhima devised a plan. He stood with legs wide open rested on two rocks, and the buffalos were made to pass under him. As one buffalo refused to pass under Bhima's legs, the Pandavas identified him as Shiva. Bhima caught hold of the buffalo and the tug of war that ensued resulted in the splitting of the buffalo into six parts. The parts falling in different regions of the Himalayas are the places where the Pandavas later erected six temples.

Thus, the five temples in India and the corresponding parts of the buffalo-Shiva are:

(a) Kalpeshwar,
     Shiva's hair is worshipped.
(b) Rudranath,
      Shiva's face is worshipped
(c) Tungnath,
      Shiva's arms are worshipped
(d) Madhyamaheshwar,
      Shiva's navel is worshipped
(e) Kedarnath,
     Shiva's behind is worshipped

I went to Rudranath for the first time in 2000 accompanied by my brother. This time my friend Partha Pratim Ghosh accompanied me. We decided to trek in the monsoon months, a rather unusual time, to see the Himalayas in monsoon splendor.  We reached Delhi by Plane on 21st Aug, then boarded train for Hardwar. Next morning, reaching Hardwar, we availed bus and reached Mandal via Chamoli and Gopeshwar.

At Mandal, we stayed at Bhagat Singh Bisht's hotel - Anusuya Lodge. It is just opposite to the "Anusuya Mata Mandir Marg". Bhagat made arrangements for a guide and porter - Anand Singh Bist and Sarvinder Singh Bist. I was glad to know that Sarvinder, our porter, was nephew of Maninder Singh Bist, our guide in 2000.

Mandal is a picturesque and peaceful village, and the confluence of Balkhilya Ganga and Atri Ganga adds to its charm.

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