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Places
Freezing Buddhist
Culture in Stone
2,200 Years Later
by Mayank Chhaya
 Carved
out of the austere rocks of central India's Sahyadri mountains are a
breathtaking set of grottos that depict life over eight centuries. As
world heritage monuments go, the Ajanta and Ellora caves in the western
Indian state of Maharashtra - about 400 km from Mumbai - are unique
because they capture the evolution of a remarkable culture for such an
extended period and freeze it for posterity in rocks that survive over
two millennia later.
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, the allure of the caves
and the sculptures and paintings inside them has grown steadily. Unlike
India's most famous monument, the Taj Mahal, the set of 50-some caves
between Ajanta and Ellora offer a dramatic peek inside life as it
unfolded over centuries.
Built between 200 B.C. and 600 A.D by a series of dynasties, the caves
remained forgotten until 1819 when a British hunting expedition, on the
trail of some tigers, chanced upon one cat contrasting against the giant
horseshoe monument.
 Made
by chiseling through the enormous horseshoe shaped hard rock on the
Waghure River, the caves were ancient resting places for Buddhist monks
traversing the length and breadth of the country to propagate Buddhist
philosophy.
The caves consist of 'vihars' (cells to rest) and 'chaityas' (prayer
halls) and are full of stunning Buddhist style paintings that
encapsulate the various incarnations of Gautam Buddha known as Jataka
Tales.
Although historians and archaeologists have always recognized the
importance of the caves, it is only in recent years that a joint effort
between the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation, the
Archaeological Survey of India and the Japan Bank for International
Cooperation (JBIC) has begun to transform them into a comprehensive
tourist site.
One of the most daunting challenges for those in charge of the upkeep of
the caves has been the preservation of such a rich record of ancient
history even while keeping it accessible to tourists.
Faced with the contradictory choice of preserving and popularizing the
2,200-year-old Ajanta and Ellora caves with their treasure trove of
paintings, the authorities have now deployed an architectural, design
and multimedia solution devised by Mumbai architect couple Trilochan and
Anju Chhaya.
Five kilometres away from the magnificent monument, the architects have
decided to create a "prelude" to the caves.
"Think of it as a trailer to a grand epic movie. It should be
tantalizing without giving anything away. Our challenge has been to
create an experience which is authentic, informative and exciting for an
increasing number of tourists who visit both the Ajanta and Ellora
caves," Chhaya told IANS.
"When we look at the Ajanta and Ellora caves we are really looking at
the evolution of nearly 1,000 years in terms of culture. Paintings,
jewellery, costumes, culinary rituals, fashion have all been depicted in
these paintings. As an architect my biggest challenge was to offer
visitors a complete overview of this grand spectacle without really
trying to impress them with my design. I approached the project with a
great deal of humility," the architect added.
The project, costing upwards of Rs. 1 billion ($22.5 million), aims at
cushioning and significantly minimizing the impact of tourism on the
site without in anyway curtailing the tourist inflow.
Before doing that, authorities went about the task of transforming the
infrastructure in and around the caves with new roads, electricity
lines, afforestation and transportation.
A one-armed helical spiral galaxy like structure is now taking shape
away from the caves where designers plan to offer a multimedia
experience built around replicas of four caves. Stories, drawn from the
history of the monument, will be narrated using multimedia techniques.
Chhaya said he has taken care to see that his team does not try to "show
off" and approaches the whole project with "humility and a sense of
paying tribute to the ancient masters".
Paintings and carvings from the caves are being replicated and placed in
the upcoming building with the specific purpose of "satiating" people's
curiosity before the reach the actual heritage site.
"We believe this approach will help in preserving the original
masterpieces. Additionally, we are also creating a sort of sculptor's
studio, which will sell replicas of the cave structures and paintings.
This too will help deflect unwanted attention to the actual monument,"
he said.
The whole experience at the new building will begin at the Orientation
Centre, which will prepare tourists on what to expect. Located under a
100 ft dome resting on a cylinder, the centre will house a cyclorama
projector for a powerful audiovisual experience. Then there is the
replica of the caves, complete with the paintings. The third element
will be the multimedia centre embedded between the cave replicas.
While the Ajanta Visitor Centre concentrates on the paintings, the
Ellora version focuses on the actual cave structure. Together they offer
a comprehensive insight into centuries of cultural evolution. Both the
complexes will have a series of short films being played in loop,
offering the visitors a continuing primer in the history of what they
are about to enter.
The designers have ensured that they incorporate the four famous
features of the region such as the Paithani saris, Himru linen, black
metal Bidri work and stoneware as part of the experiences. Local
artisans will make these products at the site.
As part of their plan to retain thematic consistency, the design firm
CCDC has created a layout for the new airport at the nearest town of
Aurangabad.
"The idea is to offer anyone coming to Aurangabad a sense of having
entered a place of extraordinary history right from the airport. It is a
fusion of the modern shell with traditional interiors depicting a
changing and modernizing face of the city," Chhaya said.
The Ajanta and Ellora Visitor Centre has the potential to emerge as a
model for preservation for a large number of heritage sites not just in
India but for all over the world.
A team of British experts that saw the project design went back
thoroughly impressed with the idea that perhaps Britain's famous
Stonehenge, the Neolithic and Bronze Age monument dating back to 2500
BC, could use a similar preservation solution.
March 30,
2007
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