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Places
The Lost Hindu Empire
of Cambodia
By
Neria Harish Hebbar, MD
A visit to Cambodia is
recommended or may even be de rigueur for any Indian with an interest in
the erstwhile history of India. For nowhere in the world outside India
one can see the glory of its past splendor so well exhibited as in
Cambodia. There are several hundred Hindu and Buddhist temple ruins
throughout the countryside, especially around the town of Siem Reap near
the large lake Tonle Sap. Siem Reap is the heart of the country. Here is
where the splendid temple Angkor Wat has stood for nearly nine hundred
years.
Mostly neglected for centuries and then ransacked and looted by
occupying forces, the treasures of Cambodia are scattered all over the
world now, mostly taken by Europeans. Smuggling of artifacts continues
to this day. Cambodia has a very checkered history of war and
destruction. It is only in the last one hundred years that attempts have
been made to preserve, excavate and study the chronology of history,
first by the French, and now by the rest of the world community. Indian
and United States governments are also assisting in refurbishing and
preserving the temples.
Many of the temple ruins appear like they are right out of pages of
Rudyard Kipling’s books. Many with crumbling walls and roofs have seen
better days. Giant trees hover over many temple walls, threatening their
very foundations. Large roots of Kapok trees twine around the temples
like giant mythical birds gripping them in their talons. Yet there is an
indescribable charm that one immediately imbibes at first sight. Many
ruins may look similar but one is drawn to see more. Those, which are
preserved, demonstrate exquisite works of art and sculpture.
The people of this impoverished country are graceful and charming. They
are simple, honest people, (mostly fishermen and farmers. There are not
many towns outside a few larger cities. Once you leave the city limits
of Phnom Penh there are not many homes or buildings of significant
magnitude. Two-wheelers are the main modes of transportation, often
attached to trailers that are used to transport families and goods. The
vendors selling books, shawls and skirts are mostly beautiful children
at temple sites, who surprise the tourists with better English than one
would expect them to speak. These children are not scrappy, but not
pushovers either and they can drive a hard bargain.
The scattered temples are mostly deserted reminders of the former glory
of the Khmer people, the dominant people of the region. Their kingdoms
waxed and waned, to include parts of Thailand (Siam), Vietnam (Champa)
and Laos at various times. There have been wars and skirmishes between
the Khmer people and their neighbors for centuries. The most recent
involvement of Cambodia in the larger war in Vietnam, when the country
was carpet bombed by the might of the American military, was just one of
several wars in its history to cause much death and destruction.
Following the American exit, civil war had kept the country impoverished
and desperate until the year 2000 when it gained independence and now
has a nascent socialist democracy.
The early history of Cambodia is best studied as Pre- Angkor era and
Angkor era. Angkor is a ‘Khmer-ization’ of the Sanskrit word Nagara,
meaning city.
Pre-Angkor History
Pre-history of Cambodia starts with the legendary Khambujaraja, a
Brahmanical king of India, who had come to the region and faced
adversity from a beautiful lady on the mountain. After a brief fight
between them, a truce was drawn and the beautiful lady, Mero by name,
married Khambuja. The country they jointly ruled was called Khambujadesa
and their descendants were called the Khmer people. Khambujadesa later
became Kampuchea and then Cambodia. The original language spoken was
Mon-Khmer. Later in the 6th century the ‘Mon’ people moved further west
to Thailand and the Khmer remained in current day Cambodia.
Indian influence in the region began in the first century C. E. They
traded goods with Khmer by way of sea, when spice and silk trade had
flourished. Both Indians and Chinese exerted their influences on the
local people but Indian culture took a firm foothold, perhaps through
the efforts of Brahmin priests. The rulers of the time had a suffix of
‘Varman’ to their names, similar to the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram.
Whilst the Cholas of Tanjavur in India eventually defeated the Pallava
Varmans in the 8th century, the Khmer kingdoms flourished well into the
14th century. Though all the rulers of Cambodia bore the name ‘Varman,’
they did not necessarily belong to the same dynasty. At various periods
in their history, the rulers and usurpers came from Siam (Thailand) or Champa (Vietnam) as well as Khambujadesa (Cambodia or Kampuchea).
 There are historical references suggesting that Cambodia had been
inhabited in the 3rd millennium B.C.E. Chinese travelers later
chronicled the first established kingdom. The first kingdom was called
Funan (an alteration of the word bnam or mountain in Khmer language). A
certain Kaundinya, inspired by a dream, traveled from India and married
a local princess Soma, belonging to the naga (cobra) tribe. He
established the first Kaundinya dynasty of Funan. Later in the 5th
century a second traveler from India - Kaundinya Jayavarman (478-514)
arrived and focused on re-establishing the Indian culture. He
established a more defined Funan kingdom and was later followed by
Rudravarman in the sixth century. He was responsible for the first
sculptures, mostly of Vishnu.
After the decline of Funan kingdom Khmer people established Chenla
kingdom, where the names of kings Shrutavarman and Sheshthavarman are
mentioned. They established their capital in Shreshthapura. Later
Ishanavarman, from the Khmer kingdom of Bhavapura, defeated the remnants
of Funan, and established his capital in Ishanapura.
Jayavarman I followed him and then his successor Pushkaraksha again
united the splintered principalities in the year 716. His capital was
Shambhupura (currently Sambor). His heirs maintained control over the
kingdom until the end of 8th century, when Malayans and Javanese (Jayavarman
II) gained dominion over many Khmer principalities. During this
pre-Angkor period many temples were built, though they did not
demonstrate the same style of architecture or the confidence of the
later builders.
The Golden Period
The glory of Cambodia and its temples began in earnest during the rule
of Jayavarman II beginning 802 C. E. It is thought that he came from the
royal court in ‘Java’ to conquer smaller Khmer states. He declared a
unified and sovereign Khambujadesa, independent of Javanese influence.
This was when the Angkor era in the history of Cambodia was born. He
named his capital city Hariharalaya and introduced ‘linga-cult.’ to his
kingdom. The cult of Devaraja or the God King (the terrestrial
counterpart of the celestial being) was also introduced by Jayavarman
II. The capital stayed around the large Lake Tonle Sap, in and around
the city of Siem Reap (until the 15th century, well after the demise of
Hindu empires, when it was moved to Phnom Penh).
Thirty years after Jayavarman II’s death, his successor Indravarman I
constructed the first major temple in his honor (one of the so called
Rolous group of temples). From then on the rulers busied themselves in
building temples using bricks, sandstone and laterite. Often they were
painted in bright colors. They also built large water reservoirs called
barays. Following Indravarman I, his son Yasovarman I built many more
temples and barays.
Rajendravarman in the 10th century was a ruler busy building another
half a dozen temples, the best preserved and an architectural
masterpiece at Bantay Srei.
During the rule of Udayadityavarman II, several lingas were carved in
the riverbed on Phnom Kulen (called Mahendraparvata at the time). Today
it is known as the ‘River of thousand lingas’ and is a tourist
attraction in its own right. It was believed that the water that flowed
over the countless lingas of the river would fertilize the rice fields
below. A short hike up the mountain will take a visitor to the place of
thousand lingas at Kbal Spean.
The first inscriptions found on temple walls, dating back to 5th
century, resembled the script used by Pallavas of South India. Later,
the Khmer developed their own unique script and carved them into the
walls mostly describing the temple and its deity but sometimes the
inscriptions were just mundane details like a list of inventory. There
are as many inscriptions in Sanskrit language as in Khmer language.
The first decade of 11th century witnessed the ascent to the throne of a
powerful king Suryavarman I (1010-1050), who unified almost all of
Khambuja and southern Thailand. He was also a busy builder of temples
and royal palaces. Following his rule, Suryavarman II (1113-1150)
further expanded the kingdom. He also built the glorious temple Angkor
Wat (from the Indian words Nagara Vata - City Temple), the pinnacle of
temples built in Cambodia.
The sprawling temple spreads over a one
square mile area. Long walls with stories of Hindu mythology are
sculpted as bas-reliefs. It is a magnificent temple complex, constructed
in the form of mythological Mount Meru - the Hindu center of the
Universe. The temple is surrounded by a large moat, representing the
ocean surrounding Mt. Meru. The brilliant paint used to enhance the
reliefs has faded but the architecture and beauty are still preserved.
The sheer magnitude of the temple complex is impressive.
All the gods of the Hindu pantheon are represented in temple sculpture.
Shiva and Vishnu were held in high esteem. Ramayana and Kurukshetra war
are depicted on entire walls of stone sculptures. A masterpiece
bas-relief is that of the legendary churning of the ocean by the gods
and demons.
Sculptures of Vishnu on the back of his vessel Garuda or reclining on
the serpent Ananta and Shiva with his consort Parvati are repeated in
many temples. Also seen are Hanuman and Ganesh, along with many
seductive figures of Apsaras - reminiscent of Dev-dasis, the consorts of
the Gods.
Another colorful king Jayavarman VII (1181-1220) followed Suryavaramn
II. The kingdom had briefly fallen into the hands of the Chams of Champa,
but the warrior-like Jayavarman VII reclaimed it and united Khambuja
once again. He expanded his kingdom to include southern Malaya and
northern Laos as well as Champa. Burmese kingdoms including Java became
subsidiaries.
Jayavarman VII was married to a Buddhist woman and later became a
Buddhist himself. Builder of dozen or more significant temples and
palaces including the great Angkor Thom, he built many Buddhist
monasteries and converted many Hindu temples into Buddhist shrines. The
elephant terrace and the statue of the Leper King are in Angkor Thom.
The statue when first found with blunted fingers, was first thought to
be of a leper (the French mistook the weather damaged fingers to be that
of a leper), but in fact is that of Yama, the king of death. The
Elephant Terrace is a ceremonial altar in facing the Royal Square,
supported by beautifully carved figures of elephants and mythical
creatures. At the entrance to Angkor Thom is a large tower, large enough
to admit elephants. On either side of the road near the entrance are
rows of large statues, with angelic face on one side and the scornful
evil face on the other.
Jayavarman VII declared himself to be Bodhisattva (as opposed to
Devaraja - God-king - introduced by Jayavarman II). His delusions of
grandeur are evident in the sculptures of colossal facial images of
himself on temples, especially at the towers of Bayon. Thus Mahayana
Buddhism (higher vehicle) had been introduced to Khambuja, which in turn
marked the beginning of the end of a glorious Hindu era.
Following Jayavarman VII’s death, skirmishes arose again both within the
kingdom and in its bordering regions. Brahmins tried to reassert their
authority with the help of Jayavarman VIII and tried to usurp Buddhist
power. However, their influence did not last too long. Soon after his
death Buddhism returned once again, though it was the Hinayana Buddhism
((Theravada or lesser vehicle) that took final foothold and still
remains the dominant religion of Cambodia today. The advent of Buddhism
effectively put a stop to the building spree in Cambodia. Some of the
existing Hindu temples were converted to Buddhist temples and
monasteries. Gods of Hindu pantheon were removed and replaced with
statues of Buddha.
 Statues of Buddha had already appeared in the pre-Angkor period. These
were mostly ushnisha Buddha (with the knot in the head, denoting
enlightenment and Nirvana) in the standing position. Later Buddha
statues appeared in many other positions of the hands of giving,
preaching and blessing. Bodhisattvas and Avalokiteshvara – Lord of the
World (Lokeshvara in Khmer) also are seen.
The last king of record from the lost empire is Jayavarman Parameshvara
(1327 - ?). In the meantime, the first large Thai state, Sukhothai, had
occupied much of the northern and western territories of Khmer empire.
In 1430 a Thai king, Paramaraja II of Ayuthya laid siege on the capital
and conquered it in seven months. From then on the decline, abandon and
decadence set in. Discussion of the upheaval and the tumult in the
ensuing history of the kingdom in the following centuries is beyond the
scope of this article.
During medieval times the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. Today it is a
city with orderly traffic with clean air and streets, with none of the
typical hustle and bustle of a mega-city in South East Asia. There are
many Pagodas and Buddhist monuments with larger than life sized statutes
of Buddha (including the Emerald Buddha), adorned with gold and
decorated with diamonds. The use of jewels on the statue of Buddha, who
had taken a vow of poverty, is curious. This is explained by the desire
to emphasize the pre-eminence of the Enlightened one, who is the
chakravartin - a sovereign of the Universe - worthy of jewels and
riches.
There is an interesting story about Phnom Penh. The word Phnom means
mountain. Penh is a Khmer word, meaning woman. This is where a beautiful
woman sitting on the mountaintop had confronted the wandering king from
India, and eventually became his consort. The place came to be known as
Phnom Penh - mountain woman. Interestingly the word Penh (or Pen –
reflexive n) means a woman in the Tamil language as well.
 The epic story of Ramayana plays an important part in the philosophical
and cultural life in Cambodia. The Khmer version, referred to as Reamker,
is carved into the walls of Angkor Wat. Reamker follows the characters
depicted in the Indian Ramayana with some of its own twists. It is a
philosophical allegory that combines Hinduism with Buddhism. Though
written in the 16th or 17th century, a full half a millennium after the
sculptures of Angkor Wat, it formed the basis of Khmer life and
philosophy from the time of its origing. It is the foundation of the
Royal Ballet repertoire and classical theater and dance.
The protagonist of the story is Preah Ream whose wife is called Neang
Seda. His brother is Preah Leak and his antagonist Ravana is called
Krong Reap. Hanuman even has a love interest in a mermaid princess
called Sovanna Maccha (translates to Golden Fish). Interestingly the
Thai version of Ramayana (called Ramakien) is actually an adaptation of
Reamker rather than the Indian original.
Conclusion
More than a million people lived around the region of Angkor Wat (Siem
Reap) during its peak. Today, the Hindu population of Cambodia
(population approximately 14 million) is not even measurable. The
majority belongs to the Buddhist religion. Though mainly based on
Hinayana (lesser Vehicle), a unique potpourri of Buddhism that is
currently practiced. Its pantheon of gods includes many Hindu idols.
They have not forgotten their history and still pay their obeisance to
god Vishnu and Shiva as well as worship Buddha.
The lost Hindu empire of Cambodia is marked by hundreds of temples. It
is the product of sweat and blood of devoted subjects of many rulers
with a passion for building. Many of the temples have crumbled from
neglect and vandalized. Many have not withstood the onslaught of
centuries of harsh weather.
But the memory of the glory of the empires left behind by its
temple-building rulers is lasting. Its vibrant former civilization and
culture are firmly etched in stone sculptures, and in their ancient
scripts. The beautiful bas-reliefs depicting Hindu puranas are delicate
as well as delightful. The sculpted figures of lovely apsaras on its
temple walls, with their modern appearing hairdo and dresses are
esthetically pleasing to the eyes. The neglected temples of Ta Prohm and
Preah Khan, with their overgrown roots of Kapok trees are sights to
behold. The rooftops appear to be strangled by giant talons of some
mythical birds in a vise-like grip. Tree roots snake around the temple
walls like Anacondas lazily bathing in the sun.
Palace city of Angkor Thom with its Elephant Terrace and the Leper King
(which actually is a sculpture of Yama with blunted fingers - due to
damage - and so it came to be known as the Leper King), and the rows of
giant statues at the entrance with the large gate are majestic. Angkor
Wat is awe-inspiring by its sheer magnitude and architectural finesse.
To see all the ruins will take many trips to Cambodia but a student of
history and anyone with curiosity about the eastward spread of the
Indian Diaspora in yesteryears must pay at least a visit to Cambodia.
July 12, 2009
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