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Travelogues
Buddhaland:
The Inner and Outer Journey
by Julia Dutta
 The
real journey began when I was three years old.
On Buddha Purnima day, my mother took me to the only Buddhist temple in
Shillong situated on top of a hill. I was transfixed by the sight of the
Buddhist monk in his ochre robe and shaven head. I ran behind him to the
edge of the hill as he climbed down to his living quarter. My mother
raced behind me –
“ Don’t go to the edge of the hill, Mamoni.” she said, “ you might fall
down.”
But, fall I did many times as I went to the edge often! However, in so
doing, I finally fell at the feet of my Masters.
I remember staring down at Shillong from the hilltop – it looked so far
away. Then it was forgotten. Or was it? Over the loss of love in early
college days, I was reminded of it again, when I sat for days at the
Marine Drive, in Bombay, staring at the sea, like a boatman anchored at
the bank of the river. However, this time a quantum leap happened.
Lashing against the shore and then receding backward, the sea remained
not far from me. But I became far from the sea.
A clear separation had happened - between me, the observer, and me, the
observed. The inner journey had begun.
The road to Buddhaland is a very short distance - a passage from head to
heart. Yet it is the longest journey I have undertaken, a journey, which
might take a few lifetimes to complete.
It was mid- June. The Bombay sky was overshadowed with dark clouds. The
welcome rains were just around the corner. From Dadar station I took the
train to Igatpuri, (138 km), a small station before Nasik. The rains had
already bathed Igatpuri with a few showers. Dhammagiri, where I was
headed to, is S N Goenka’s seat of learning of Vipassana, the art of
meditation as taught by Lord Buddha. I had no previous booking, which is
mandatory. Luckily, someone dropped out and I got include.
I had arrived the evening before the actual 10-day program began. At
five o’clock that evening we were told about all the dos and don’ts. If
you are one of those compulsive rule breakers, be warned! That evening
the Golden Silence began. What is that you ask? Here, experience it! For
just one hour lock your self in and stop all communications - Talking,
listening to TV, radio, music, reading or writing. No! No laptop either.
Or Internet, cell phone! No eye contact, or touching. Sorry! You can’t
throw that flying kiss either! That, then, is the Golden Silence carried
out for ten days! From 4 a.m. to 8 p.m., we were engaged with only
meditation. When all other activities stops, it is possible to see how
difficult it is, not to do anything. We hide behind activity and we talk
as Khalil Gibran says “ ….because you are not at ease with our
thoughts”. The inner journey begins when we finally arrive at a
bivouac of life. Outside travel entails arriving at a certain
destination, within a given time frame. The inner journey transcends
both, time and space.
Green hills and trees surround Dhammagiri. Clean air and lots of open
space. Birds chatter to make up for our imposed silence. The large
Golden Pagoda is the central theme of Dhammagiri. For those who are
there for the second time onward, they spend most of the ten days in the
dark underground cells beneath the Pagoda.
The Maharashtrian community is marked by measured lifestyle. Simple
living. Simple food. The people at Igatpuri reflect this philosophy of
life. Men dress mainly in white pyjamas, a light colored shirt and wear
a Gandhi cap. Women wear saris tucked between the legs like a dhoti, to
keep the legs free for movement. They are hard working people. The
typical diet is simple – chapattis with vegetables, daal, pickle and a
small bowlful of rice.
Food, at Dhammagiri, is sattvic – Totally vegetarian, without onions,
garlic, or spices. Lodging and boarding is free. You pay for your
laundry. And donate later, according to your capacity.
For me, a good holiday must rejuvenate me at multiple levels -
intellectual, spiritual, physical and emotional. Around Igatpuri there
are many other activities I can do, after or prior to the 10-day
retreat. Trek to Mount Kalsubai ( via Mori Village). Visit Infant Jesus
Shrine at Nasik (27 kms), or Sai Baba in Shirdi ( 140 km via Nasik)
But wherever I go, I keep coming back to the unique Buddhaland
experience. I have touched my original Self - Silent. Peaceful. Forever
mine. It is positively empowering, healing and no matter what happens in
my life, I can always tune in to this Silence for strength and
equanimity of mind. It is my Original Face, calm and collected, still,
as a pond undisturbed by the pebbles thrown on its surface. The ripples
are what the world perceives. They are transient and impermanent by
nature. Inside, the stillness remains unmoved. Growing in depth
everyday.
Silently.
December 10, 2006
Image by RK
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