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Travelogues
As it had rained the previous night, the path was infested with leeches and although our guide ensured that we all had the right protective foot gear to ward the blood sucking creatures off, this trek is not recommended for the faint hearted. Of course, we were disappointed to not spot any wild elephants, which tend to come to the lakefront during the months of March/April when the waterbed is low. So we settled down instead for an elephant ride through spice plantations as the tusker skillfully navigated through tall trees, giving it a surrealistic feeling of wading through the jungle.
The following morning after a brisk invigorating walk through the woods, we set off for a guided tour at Abraham’s spice plantation. Thekkady is the spice capital of the world and here you get to see cardamom, nutmeg, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, clove, vanilla, jasmine, coffee, jackfruit trees in abundance.
Daybreak is absolutely charming as the sun gracefully rises and you can hear the solitary fisherman singing and paying homage to the gods to ensure a bountiful catch. Early in the morning, we then went on a small boat to the Kumarakom bird sanctuary and trekked in the marshes to spot wildlife. We saw plenty of aquatic birds and fishermen who are out there early at dawn in their special boats which they propel forward using long pole-oars! It is a wonderful experience to see a whole flock of cormorants take off in the wide expanse of the lake and it is equally enchanting to see a solitary heron resting on a branch amidst the placid waters.
As dusk approaches the houseboat comes to a slow halt and is finally anchored at Lake Pampa. You are surrounded by water and lush greenery everywhere and the tranquil ambience allows you to catch beautiful glimpses of the setting sun. No wonder this has been called God’s own country! Candlelight dinner on the houseboat is a wonderful experience although you do have some unexpected visitors who come buzzing around attracted by the light. As the boat sways gently in the placid waters, it is pitch black outside and it is time to call it a day. After a good night’s rest, you wake up before the sun is up and hasten to the front end of the boat to witness daybreak. This is an absolutely spectacular phenomenon for city breds as you blend in with Mother Nature and relish the sunrays reflecting off of the lake’s waters. Soon breakfast is served in traditional Kerala style and it is time once again to set sail and enjoy the final few hours of the boat ride before disembarking back at Allapuzha. The twenty-two hour houseboat ride was certainly the most memorable experience we had, thanks to a fine crew that kept us engaged and entertained. We were back on the road to face the noise and traffic jams as we headed towards Guruvayoor to visit the famous Krishna temple and the adjoining beautiful Mammiyoor temple which is home to Shiva! January 7, 2007 |
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We then
proceeded to watch a fine rendition of Kathakali at the Mudra Kathakali
Center. The setting is in a rather small room which makes it all the
more fascinating as you can watch the artistes put on their make-up and
costumes and tranport you to a world of mime, poetry and music that is
absolutely riveting. 
We then set
off through more winding roads and hills to the sleepy little town of
Kumarakom, where we stayed at a resort on the Vembanad Lake, which
happens to be the largest lake in Kerala. You can perch down on the
lakefront and with pin drop silence all around; one can take in all the
beauty and splendor of the setting sun as it gradually disappears into
the horizon! The tranquility and quietude calls for a very quiescent
experience and the only sound you hear are the waters lapping at the
shore and the chirping of birds, which makes it truly magical. 
The ride from
Kumarakom to Allapuzha (Alleppey) was a short one and you pass through
several rubber plantations in the Kottayam district. We reached the
jetty in Finishing Point just before noon and were greeted by the crew
of our houseboat. We set sail shortly after noon and the captain of the
houseboat introduced the rest of the crew that included two excellent
cooks and a general help. The houseboat was called ‘Dreamboat II” and at
91’ long was equipped with two rooms, excellent bath facilities, a
living/dining room, kitchen, electricity and a fine perch on the front
deck right behind the captain. Houseboats or Kettuvalloms were
historically used to transport rice and other commodities. The
backwaters of Kerala offer you an enchanting view into the lives of the
townsfolk as you totally wind down and relish the green landscape
littered with swaying coconut trees on either side and enjoy the cool
breeze as the houseboat merrily plods along. Dubbed as the Venice of
India, this is truly an awesome way to experience the splendor of
Kerala. 
The houseboat is then parked along beautiful green paddy fields and
tethered to a coconut tree. The aroma of freshly prepared food beckons
you as lunch is served with a bit of pomp and élan. The houseboat makes
several stops along the way and you can get down and visit some of the
landmarks such as the Champakulam snake boat which has takes part at the
annual boat races during the Onam festival, a 1000 year old Church and a
number of shops selling trinkets, brass lamps and other novelties. Along
the way there are quite a few ‘boat stands’ where passengers wait to
catch the next ride either to cross the river or go further down. 
